Intricate Italy

Ah, Italy. The home of some of my favourite foods (pizza, pasta, prosciutto, risotto, bruschetta…) and also to some of my favourite wines. But Italian wines can be hugely daunting for a novice drinker thanks to the 1000’s of native grape varieties you can find, so it’s no wonder that people keep reaching for that failsafe bottle of Pinot Grigio.

 

But it’s worth venturing out of your comfort zone as these lesser-known grapes can offer some of the best value wines coming out of Europe. So before you go shopping, it’s worth cramming on your Italian geography as the style of wine varies as you progress down the length of this boot-shaped country. In the North it is an alpine, cooler climate and the soils are chalky, so the wines tend to be fresher, the reds more tannic and the whites more zingy (great for fans of Bordeaux & Sancerre); in the South it is hotter and the soils are volcanic, so the wines are more spicy, rich and ripe (perfect for Malbec & Chardonnay drinkers). Obviously there are exceptions to this rule but knowing where a bottle comes from will help to steer you vaguely in the right direction (I hope).

alpine vineyards of Trentino Alto Adige (photo courtesy of www.made-in-italy.com)

vineyards in the foothills of Mount Etna (photo courtesy of www.made-in-italy.com)

 

So here follows my Top 10 obscure Italian grapes that are well worth taking a punt on…

Arneis – the name means “rascal” in Italian, apparently due to the trouble it causes winemakers. It is grown in the hills of Piedmont and the resulting vibrant white wines are full of green apple, citrus and white pepper flavours. Try this instead of your usual Pinot Grigio.

Greco di Tufo – Greco is the grape variety, and Greco di Tufo specifically is from Campania in the South, “Tufo” referring to the name of the volcanic rocky soils that these grapes are grown on, resulting in white wines with an almost salty, minerally spritz.

Grillo & Catarratto – both grown widely in Sicily thanks to its love of the sun, it was originally only really used to make Marsala but recently winemakers have been singling them out for their ability to produce juicy, fruity white wines with real body and complexity, either individually or blended. These are great crowd-pleasing wines.

Vermentino – mostly grown in Sardinia, this zingy white wine should be your go-to if you’re normally a Sauvignon Blanc drinker. Perfect as an aperitif or with grilled fish.

Falanghina – pronounced “Fa-lan-ghee-na,” this grape is grown in the volcanic south and produces whites with the perfect balance between freshness, aromatics and richness. This is just as good served as an aperitif or with your roast chicken supper. Flavours you can expect include oranges, honey and ginger. Give it a try if you’re a fan of Chardonnay.

 

Dolcetto – meaning “little sweet one”, Dolcetto lives in the shadows of its famous neighbour Nebbiolo (which is used to make Barolo and Barbaresco), yet Dolcetto is the grape that all the locals drink on a daily basis. It has much less tannin than Nebbiolo and is made to be drunk young, but it is still very much better drunk with food (it’s divine with tomato-based meaty dishes).

Cannonau - aka Grenache, grown in Sardinia, this is quite possibly the most perfect red wine for your pepperoni pizza! Red cherry fruit with hints of leather and smoke, Cannonau reds are very savoury so they definitely need food, and they should appeal to any Red Burgundy drinkers out there.

Aglianico – This one is for all you Malbec drinkers! Grown in the southern regions of Campania and Basilicata, typical characteristics include dark berry fruit, mint and dark chocolate, and insanely good with roast lamb. Look out also for Taurasi which is a DOC red made from 100% Aglianico.

Primitivo – grown in Puglia, this is believed to be where America’s Zinfandel grape came from. The wines are dark, ripe and luscious and go brilliantly with barbecued meats.

Nero d’Avola – if you’re a fan of New World Cabernet Sauvignon, you’ll like this. Nero d’Avola is widely planted in Sicily and the resulting wines have good tannic structure and intense black cherry, plum and liquorice spice.

Happy Swigging!

High Street Wine Challenge: Côtes du Rhône Villages (M&S, £8)

The Rhône Valley has always been my go-to for wines that massively overdeliver for their price. Côtes du Rhône is the entry-level appellation of the region, producing easy-drinking blends of predominantly Grenache & Syrah (there are actually 21 different grape varieties allowed in a Côtes du Rhône wine, but these two tend to dominate). Côtes du Rhône Villages is a step up in quality, more complex and normally a touch more alcoholic.

This M&S version I picked up as it's currently on special offer reduced from £12 to £8. It is full of super ripe blackberry fruit, pepper spice, and a silky smooth texture. It's not as complex as I have come to expect from this appellation but it's a very drinkable bottle of wine and good value at it's current price. Wonderfully food-friendly too, this would be delicious with most meaty dishes but especially sausages, lamb or cottage pie.

Also worth looking out for is WHITE Côtes du Rhône. Rather harder to get your hands on, but incredibly tasty if you can. Floral, peachy and spicy,  they are some of the world's most underrated white wines.

Happy Swigging!