Malbec isn’t the most famous grape variety in the World. It’s not classed as one of the “noble” varieties, however it’s fast becoming an exceedingly popular wine. I’m sure this is in no small part thanks to such Argentinian restaurants as Gaucho Grill whose wine list reads like a who’s who of the Malbec world. Everyone knows Argentinian Malbec, however this grape originates from Bordeaux, where it is used normally in very small quantities as part of the Bordeaux blend (alongside, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Petit Verdot). However it is used more seriously a little further south, in the “black wines” of Cahors, a perfect description as these reds made from 100% Malbec are inky dark, rustic and spicy.
But while acreage of Malbec in France declining, the Argentinians are fast building a reputation for producing the best Malbec in the World. Argentina’s greatest feature is the Andes, which allows for near perfect vinegrowing conditions. This is because:
a. Vineyards can be planted at higher altitudes, where the temperatures are cooler (and the grapes are much happier)
b. Constant free irrigation runs down from the Andes’ melting snowcaps
c. Mountain breezes keep the grapes dry and free from disease
Altitude also has the effect of slowing down the ripening process. This is a very good thing for Malbec because it has the potential to produce high yields of very simple, unexciting wines if not somehow tamed. So the higher the vineyards, the slower the ripening and the lower the yields, resulting in much more concentrated, complex juice.
Argentinians are rightly proud of their Malbecs. And if you’ve ever been to Argentina, you’ll know that meat, particularly steak, is a major part of their cuisine. Let’s just say if you’re a vegetarian you’d go very hungry out there. I recently went to dinner at Santa Maria del Sur in Battersea, a local Argentinian steak restaurant with rave reviews. Having booked the table 2 months previously I was rather overexcited about the impending meat feast, so it wasn’t until I’d been handed the wine menu that I remembered the treat I was about to experience. The reason Malbec is so good with steak is thanks to its soft supple tannins which magically combine with the richness of the beef to make a match made in heaven. I’m not saying that Malbec is the only wine that works well with steak. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and other tannin-strong reds are very delicious too. But I feel there’s something wrong about ordering anything other than Argentina’s finest to go with a beautifully griddled rib-eye in such a fantastic restaurant.
When picking your Malbec, you’ll find that the price range is pretty wide. Basically, the higher the price normally means the higher the vineyards and also the longer the wine has spent in oak, so the more bang for your buck you’re going to get. Also, while Mendoza is Argentina’s most famous region, look out also for Salta (further north so hotter but also the highest commercial vineyards) and Patagonia (further south so cooler), for there are some very impressive Malbecs emerging from these regions.
Another thought to leave you with. While other South American countries such as Chile and Brazil also produce some delicious wines, Argentina is the only one that focuses on wine and wine alone. Chile has Pisco and Brazil has Cachaca, while Argentina has Malbec. It is their pride and joy, and my goodness I don’t blame them.
