Intricate Italy

Ah, Italy. The home of some of my favourite foods (pizza, pasta, prosciutto, risotto, bruschetta…) and also to some of my favourite wines. But Italian wines can be hugely daunting for a novice drinker thanks to the 1000’s of native grape varieties you can find, so it’s no wonder that people keep reaching for that failsafe bottle of Pinot Grigio.

 

But it’s worth venturing out of your comfort zone as these lesser-known grapes can offer some of the best value wines coming out of Europe. So before you go shopping, it’s worth cramming on your Italian geography as the style of wine varies as you progress down the length of this boot-shaped country. In the North it is an alpine, cooler climate and the soils are chalky, so the wines tend to be fresher, the reds more tannic and the whites more zingy (great for fans of Bordeaux & Sancerre); in the South it is hotter and the soils are volcanic, so the wines are more spicy, rich and ripe (perfect for Malbec & Chardonnay drinkers). Obviously there are exceptions to this rule but knowing where a bottle comes from will help to steer you vaguely in the right direction (I hope).

alpine vineyards of Trentino Alto Adige (photo courtesy of www.made-in-italy.com)

vineyards in the foothills of Mount Etna (photo courtesy of www.made-in-italy.com)

 

So here follows my Top 10 obscure Italian grapes that are well worth taking a punt on…

Arneis – the name means “rascal” in Italian, apparently due to the trouble it causes winemakers. It is grown in the hills of Piedmont and the resulting vibrant white wines are full of green apple, citrus and white pepper flavours. Try this instead of your usual Pinot Grigio.

Greco di Tufo – Greco is the grape variety, and Greco di Tufo specifically is from Campania in the South, “Tufo” referring to the name of the volcanic rocky soils that these grapes are grown on, resulting in white wines with an almost salty, minerally spritz.

Grillo & Catarratto – both grown widely in Sicily thanks to its love of the sun, it was originally only really used to make Marsala but recently winemakers have been singling them out for their ability to produce juicy, fruity white wines with real body and complexity, either individually or blended. These are great crowd-pleasing wines.

Vermentino – mostly grown in Sardinia, this zingy white wine should be your go-to if you’re normally a Sauvignon Blanc drinker. Perfect as an aperitif or with grilled fish.

Falanghina – pronounced “Fa-lan-ghee-na,” this grape is grown in the volcanic south and produces whites with the perfect balance between freshness, aromatics and richness. This is just as good served as an aperitif or with your roast chicken supper. Flavours you can expect include oranges, honey and ginger. Give it a try if you’re a fan of Chardonnay.

 

Dolcetto – meaning “little sweet one”, Dolcetto lives in the shadows of its famous neighbour Nebbiolo (which is used to make Barolo and Barbaresco), yet Dolcetto is the grape that all the locals drink on a daily basis. It has much less tannin than Nebbiolo and is made to be drunk young, but it is still very much better drunk with food (it’s divine with tomato-based meaty dishes).

Cannonau - aka Grenache, grown in Sardinia, this is quite possibly the most perfect red wine for your pepperoni pizza! Red cherry fruit with hints of leather and smoke, Cannonau reds are very savoury so they definitely need food, and they should appeal to any Red Burgundy drinkers out there.

Aglianico – This one is for all you Malbec drinkers! Grown in the southern regions of Campania and Basilicata, typical characteristics include dark berry fruit, mint and dark chocolate, and insanely good with roast lamb. Look out also for Taurasi which is a DOC red made from 100% Aglianico.

Primitivo – grown in Puglia, this is believed to be where America’s Zinfandel grape came from. The wines are dark, ripe and luscious and go brilliantly with barbecued meats.

Nero d’Avola – if you’re a fan of New World Cabernet Sauvignon, you’ll like this. Nero d’Avola is widely planted in Sicily and the resulting wines have good tannic structure and intense black cherry, plum and liquorice spice.

Happy Swigging!

High Street Wine Challenge: Côtes du Rhône Villages (M&S, £8)

The Rhône Valley has always been my go-to for wines that massively overdeliver for their price. Côtes du Rhône is the entry-level appellation of the region, producing easy-drinking blends of predominantly Grenache & Syrah (there are actually 21 different grape varieties allowed in a Côtes du Rhône wine, but these two tend to dominate). Côtes du Rhône Villages is a step up in quality, more complex and normally a touch more alcoholic.

This M&S version I picked up as it's currently on special offer reduced from £12 to £8. It is full of super ripe blackberry fruit, pepper spice, and a silky smooth texture. It's not as complex as I have come to expect from this appellation but it's a very drinkable bottle of wine and good value at it's current price. Wonderfully food-friendly too, this would be delicious with most meaty dishes but especially sausages, lamb or cottage pie.

Also worth looking out for is WHITE Côtes du Rhône. Rather harder to get your hands on, but incredibly tasty if you can. Floral, peachy and spicy,  they are some of the world's most underrated white wines.

Happy Swigging! 

High Street Wine Challenge: Brazin Old Vine Zinfandel (Waitrose, £9.69)

Zinfandel is one of those grape varieties that I fall back on quite regularly for its easy style and approachability. After a long hard week at work, sometimes all you want from a wine is the liquid equivalent of a big warm hug. Zinfandel is believed to be related to Primitivo from southern Italy, which offers similarly sweet dark fruit flavours, but its Californian sibling is far more famous now.

Tonight's bottle is from the Lodi area of California's San Joaquin Valley, where the intense sunshine but cool nights create the optimum conditions for powerful, complex red wines. This example is no exception. Currently reduced in price from £12.99 to £9.69, this red is full of luscious blackberry fruit, notes of chocolate and vanilla, silky smooth and full-bodied yet with a refreshing acidity that makes it a fabulous wine with food. Try it with barbecued ribs, curry, or slow-cooked oxtail stew. Rich and delicious.

Happy Swigging!

Cocoa Vino

This year I made the ridiculous decision to quit chocolate for Lent. Madness! So as we approach the Easter bank holiday weekend my cupboards are overflowing with cocoa-based products. Rather predictably I decided to write about the best wines to drink alongside your Easter treats. Any excuse, eh?

The most important rule when trying to match wine with any kind of sweet food is that you must pick a wine that is sweeter than the food. For example, if you are eating sweet milk chocolate a la Cadburys with a glass of dry red, the wine will taste even drier to the point of horrid bitterness. However, bitter chocolate (such as the stuff that contains 70% or more cocoa solids) can pair very well with dry reds, as I discovered on a wine tasting at the beautiful Waterford winery in South Africa’s Stellenbosch region (www.waterfordestate.co.za).
 
So which wines should I be taking home with me this Easter? Well, it depends on the type of chocolate you are indulging in…

 

White Chocolate

I will not apologise for my love of white chocolate which I’m constantly told is not real chocolate. So if you’re a fan like me, you need to find a wine that’s super sweet. Moscato d’Asti would be brilliant as it’s got the right level of sugar and a freshness that will help clean the palate. Also Pink Port is an excellent option as it’s full of sweet strawberry and raspberry fruit which works brilliantly (check out M&S’s Pink Port which comes in under £10 and is really tasty).

 

M&S Pink Port £8.99

Milk Chocolate & Dark Chocolate

I personally like to eat my milk and dark chocolate with nutty fortified wines, as this contributes lovely nutty nuances to every mouthful (much like the deliciousness of the purples chocolates in a box of Quality Street). If you like this idea, check out Bual or Malmsey Madeira, or sweet Oloroso sherry.

If however you’re more of a fan of chocolate-coated raisins, try a glass of Pedro Ximenez (PX) sherry which contributes the intense dried fruit notes you’re looking for.

Other fortified dessert wines worth checking out are Banyuls, Rivesaltes Ambré and Rutherglen Muscat from sunny Australia. All of them have the right level of sweetness, flavour intensity and alcohol to stand up to your chocolate addiction.

 

Bitter Chocolate (70%+ cocoa solids)

This is the interesting one, as I mentioned earlier, as this kind of chocolate is not sweet so actually it would be best to serve a dry wines alongside it so as not to enhance the bitterness too much. So I recommend you eat this alongside a big New World Shiraz or Cabernet Sauvignon - you’ll be fascinated by how well they compliment each other.

Happy Swigging!

High Street Wine Challenge: Chateauneuf du Pape (LIDL £7.99)

My mother is a massive fan of LIDL. She bangs on about the wonders of this budget supermarket but I'm yet to be convinced (partly because I refuse to do my weekly shop anywhere other than the Internet). But today I found myself using the LIDL carpark and my typical middle-class guilt led me down the aisles, seeking out the super cheap wines everyone is talking about.

I struggled to find anything that appealed, the selection was pretty uninspiring, but finally decided upon a bottle of Chateauneuf du Pape on offer at £7.99 (I'm sorry I can't remember the original price but it was definitely over my £10 budget). My husband, in the midst of a rubbish week, was pretty horrified when I told him where tonight's wine had come from, but after lots of face-pulling he had to admit it was pretty drinkable. Quite light-bodied, sweet red fruits, sweet spice and good acidity. In honesty, there's no way I would have guessed this was a Chateauneuf du Pape in a blind tasting, it tastes more like a Cotes du Rhone or similar, so I would have been disappointed to pay full price for it. However it looks pretty smart and it slipped down a treat with our sausage supper (no that's not a euphemism).

Happy Swigging!

Torre del Falco Nero di Troia, Waitrose (£5.99)

Following on from last weekend's disappointing Californian blend, tonight we opened another Waitrose red from their current special offer selection (tonight's bottle is normally £7.99) in the hope of finding something better.

Nero di Troia (aka Uva di Troia) is a black grape from Puglia,  the heel of Italy's boot, where it is overshadowed by the more famous Primitivo and Negroamaro grapes. Hence why you may never have heard of it.

This wine is full of ripe black cherries, raspberries and sweet spice, with typical Italian acidity that makes it fabulous with food such as roast porchetta, calves liver or, in our case, pizza. A really moreish red wine that is a bargain at it's current special offer price tag.

Happy Swigging!   

Apothic Red Winemakers Blend, Waitrose (£7.49)

Last weekend I was faced with the dilemma of what wine goes with "haggis, neeps & tatties." This is something I had never really contemplated before but, now that I have a toddler alarm clock, I have decided that pure Whisky hangovers are no longer an option.

So I was in Waitrose and saw this bottle of Californian red, currently on offer (normally £10) and I thought it might be interesting. The label says it's a blend of Zinfandel, Merlot, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon, so I imagined quite a big and bold red which could stand up to the spices of the haggis.

Unfortunately, I was a bit disappointed. The wine has the sweetness of Zinfandel but isn't nearly as complex as one would hope. I was expecting some structure from the Cabernet and maybe some dark fruit and spice from the Syrah,  but all I got was a sweet fruit bomb. Having said all that, it might work well with a curry or a BBQ? All-in-all, it's a nice wine but I would have been very upset if I'd paid full price.

Happy Swigging!